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Best Bouldering Shoes
Standout Picks
Criteria Used for Evaluation
Traction
As opposed to other shoes (such as running or walking shoes) the importance of grip and traction is important in different ways. For shoes such as running shoes, traction is vital to ensure you have control when running over uneven or slippery terrain. But, with bouldering shoes, the grip is important when you are climbing very steep rock fixtures.
A couple of factors come into play to ensure you are provided with this grip, and the first is the outsole. This is the portion of the shoe that will be performing most of the workload, and just like cleats in sports, it is required for maximum grip.
But, what also plays a role is the amount of gripping you have when toe hooking (which is used on very steep climbs when you need to contour your body to mimic a monkey). This, more or less, will be guaranteed if the shoe has an aggressive downturned profile.
You may wonder why the shape of these shoes is curved and it is because that allows you to toe hook when you need to. And even if you could perform toe hooking with other shoes, the downturned profile provides more power and grip.
Ground Feel
Power is significant when you are bouldering, and your shoes will play a vital role in ensuring that you are provided with this power. However, it may not work exactly as you think. It is not as if there are AA batteries integrated into the shoes that will enable the shoes to do all the work for you.
No, this is not the power at play. Instead, the shoes need to bring all the power to the front of your toe. This will come in handy when you start performing specific climbing techniques, such as edging and smearing.
Edging is a technique that you will, most likely, have to perform eventually. It takes place when you are climbing on a foothold that is too narrow. In this instance, you can’t place your entire foot on the hold so you must place your inside edge (which is from the big toe down) on the foothold.
Thus, having an ample amount of power at the front toe area will give you the extra ingredient that you need. However, this same power can also play a role when you smear.
Think of smearing as walking up a flight of stairs as you press the sole of your shoe on the rock and use friction to pull yourself up. Directing all the power to the front of the shoe can make this technique significantly easier as well.
Adjustability
These next two sections are vital for the actual performance end of bouldering. But, now we turn into the realm of comfortability and adjustability. Just like with every other shoe on the planet, bouldering shoes will have some adjustment system to allow you to tailor the tightness to your needs. However, from shoe to shoe, this will vary quite a bit.
Sometimes designers will choose to go with a hook-and-loop strap design (with either one or multiple straps) and other times they will resort to the classic lace-up design.
To be honest, the style in which you prefer is mainly your preference. It is difficult to sit here and state that one is vastly superior to the other as that is just not true. Some people do not like dealing with laces as straps are easier to secure. However, on the flip side, many may prefer laces as achieving the proper tightness may be easier for you. Either way, choose your preference.
Size
When it comes down to it, this may just be the single most important detail that you get right. As opposed to traditional walking and running shoes, the sizing of bouldering shoes can be rather finicky. As you probably gathered right away, most bouldering shoes are not sized accurately (at least, in terms of people’s actual shoe sizes).
While it will vary from designer to designer, you should automatically expect that a pair of bouldering shoes will not fit as your sneakers do. As a matter of fact, some will be multiple sizes off of what you typically wear.
So, what can you do about this? Unfortunately, this is one of the biggest caveats to online shopping in that you can’t physically try the shoes on yourself before investing in them. Though, what you can do is to look up as many customer reviews as you can to see what others state about the size. Also, always reference seller’s size charts as these could help as well.
Durability
Your bouldering shoes are going to go through abuse. But, they are specifically designed for a sport that does not exactly have the smoothest of terrain. Most of the time, the portion that will go first in these shoes is the outsole.
More specifically, the rubber that is integrated on the outsole. No matter what you do, you can’t prevent this from occurring. With that being said, some rubber outsoles are more durable and long-lasting than others.
However, it is not just the outsole, though, as the interior soles will also not last forever. But, most of the time, you can get away with replacing the soles when they begin to deteriorate.
Top Ten Bouldering Shoes
1. La Sportiva TC Pro
La Sportiva is a great brand for bouldering shoes. The TC Pro has amazing performance when it comes to free-combing. It will protect your ankles with the high-top fit. It's definitely one of the best shoes for multi-pitch climbing, hand cracks, wide cracks, and face-climbing.
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Because of the very thick sole, it can be difficult to get a strong grip on very slick surfaces. But you will need to be on some significantly slick terrain to notice any real lapse in performance.
Ground Feel
What provides you with an excellent amount of power, specifically when edging, is the incredibly stiff sole on the TC Pros. They are also great at heel hooks thanks to the wide strip of rubber up the back of the heel.
Adjustability
Thanks to the lacing system, you can create your perfect fit, allowing the TC Pro's to fit a variety of feet and ensuring extra security and tightness when you need it.
Size
Overall, users have claimed that these shoes tend to run bigger and are best suited for narrower feet. With that being said, sizing options are available from 24 to 46.
Durability
The XS Edge rubber gives a great blend of performance and durability. It's slightly stiffer rubber than other shoes so it will last you a while and be great on edges. The downside is the seam where rand meets leather often delaminates but a few drops of glue or seam grip will easily fix this.
Overall
There is no doubt, this shoe secures a spot on this list due to its impressive grip and aggressive design. If you're looking for an incredible edging shoe that ranks against the high-end climbing standards, this is your shoe.
2. Scarpa Instinct VS
You will see several manufacturers appear more than once on this list and Scarpa is one of them. When analyzing their Instinct VS Climbing shoes this should not be much of a surprise as it is obvious they know what they are doing.
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There are rubber patches on the tops of the toes and it delivers an exceptional amount of grip when you are hooking the tops of your shoes to other objects. Plus, the Vibram rubber outsole will properly grip to the rock wall that you are climbing.
Ground Feel
The rand is positioned in a way that positions your toes for an excellent amount of power. In addition, for an excellent amount of movement on complex routes, the two-part sole allows the front and back of the feet to work independently.
Adjustability
To fine-tune your fit, there is an integrated rip-and-stick strap that can be adjusted for your needs. Also, there are loops at the heals which allow for easier entry.
Size
There are size options available from 3.5 all the way to 12.
Durability
Not only does the Vibram rubber outsole provide you with the grip that you will need, but it also will endure regular wear. Plus, when needed, you can replace the sole.
Overall
About the only gripe is Scarpa may have exaggerated their claim that the shoes will not stretch, as some have pointed out this is not the case.
3. La Sportiva Genius
With high-quality craftsmanship, new technology, and impressive durability, the Genius are something special. La Sportiva claims the Genius is "the highest performance climbing shoes on the market." Though many companies love to claim this of their products, a high-quality company like La Sportiva making claims like that deserve a closer look.
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The "No-Edge" technology creates sensitivity and stickiness on difficult footholds. It sticks on any hold and does well on tough-to-stick glassy feet.
Ground Feel
The La Sportive Genius is a high-performance shoe designed for steep terrain. The sole is built with Permanent Power Platform technology in the midsole which allows for greater flexibility without losing shape. The "No-Edge" technology of the 3mm XS Grip 2 sole creates sensitivity and stickiness on difficult footholds.
Adjustability
While La Sportive is known for making narrow shoes, the Genius is can fit a variety of feet. The shoe is designed to fit like a sock. It stretches and fits comfortably on the contours of any foot.
Size
While there are size options from 35 to 46 (EU), some climbers felt they could go down a size they normally would.
Durability
With XS Edge rubber La Sportiva Genius are very durable. Even with consistent use, they show little wear after months of use.
Overall
While these shoes do provide a terrific amount of stickiness and aggressiveness, they are also comfortable too. That combination can be difficult to find in a bouldering shoe and is one you should not take lightly.
4. Five Ten Team 5.10
This is an updated version of Five Ten’s original Team Shoes. While those will not be addressed, this version will and if you go up one size more than you normally would, you will get the most out of these shoes.
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Five Ten also integrates their Stealth HF rubber outsole on their Team 5.10 shoes and while it still has its longevity concerns, it will stick to the smallest features when you are climbing.
Ground Feel
Most of the power that is created here is thanks to the downturned profile with its aggressive curvature. No matter the climbing that is ahead of you, you will crush it.
Adjustability
While the hook-and-loop closure system gives you a secure fit, the elasticized entry comes in handy to prevent any tears from resulting by taking off and putting on the shoes.
Size
For the best fit possible, many users have recommended going up a full-size of your normal shoe size. With options from 2 to 13, hopefully, this is possible for you.
Durability
Five Ten did do an admirable job of designing the upper section of this footwear as its synthetic microfiber will reduce the amount of stretching over time. However, again, their rubber outsole is not as durable as others you will find.
Overall
Precious time was taken by Five Ten when designing this shoe, that is for sure. Features such as its elasticized entry, synthetic microfiber upper, and aggressive curvature prove this.
5. La Sportiva Solution
This is probably one of the most popular bouldering shoes out there and they certainly live up to their hype. While the break-in period can be painful, when they do stretch out for you the rest will be history.
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La Sportiva designed a 4mm-thick Vibram Grip2 rubber outsole into their bouldering shoe and it is the reason why you are provided with an incredible amount of friction and grip.
Ground Feel
With the patented P3 power platform, these shoes are able to retain their downturned shape and deliver an exceptional amount of performance on steep routes.
Adjustability
Instead of a strap, these shoes feature a classic lacing system that allows you to tighten and loosen the shoes to adapt to your liking. Plus, the Lock Harness System surrounds your feet for a perfect fit.
Size
Amazon lists the sizes in EU, which is no problem and has size 34 to 45.5 available for you. Those who need U.S. sizes can easily convert the sizes.
Durability
As great as the outsole is at delivering grip and friction, the rubber that is installed on it will not last too long. But, on the other hand, you can re-sole these shoes when the current sole wears down.
Overall
Users and reviewers have the right to praise this pair of shoes, as it deserves all the acclaim it receives. With that being said, over time, the rubber outsole may deteriorate quicker than you would like.
6. La Sportiva Miura
Back to back shoes from La Sportiva, but their Miura shoes are just a little bit different. While they do utilize the same outsole, there are key design elements that make it stand out.
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Just as they did with their Solution model, La Sportiva implements the 4mm Vibram Grip2 outsole for a great amount of friction in all temperatures. But, remember, it still has some longevity concerns.
Ground Feel
For the ultimate edging power, there is both a powered hinge system and a slingshot rand in these shoes. Plus, the 1mm midsole also provides support for even further effectiveness for edging power.
Adjustability
Instead of a lacing system, there are three hook-and-loop straps that can be individually adjusted to tailor to your needs. This also aids when you need to take off your shoes quickly.
Size
Size options are available from 32 to 43 (EU). However, reviewers and users have complained that these shoes tend to fit large.
Durability
The synthetic linings, which will wick away moisture, do deliver long-lasting performance. However, again, the issue here is with the outsole. If you use these shoes religiously, it will wear down quicker than you expect it to.
Overall
The same outsole and large tendency hurt these shoes a little bit, but there is still more than enough quality to warrant an investment. When they fit and are in good condition, they perform as well as any bouldering shoe that you will ever find.
7. Butora Acro
You will quickly begin to realize that the break-in period for bouldering shoes can be a little bit of a hassle. The same thing goes for these shoes from Butora but guess what, everything past this is pure gold.
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This shoe is specifically designed for bouldering as it is an aggressively down-cambered shoe. In conjunction with the sticky rubber toe patch, the grip and traction in any technical situation are superb.
Ground Feel
To bring all the power to the front of your toe, there is a high-tensioned heel rand integrated into this shoe. Overall, as well, the upper construction of natural and synthetic leather provides great performance and comfort.
Adjustability
This bad boy fits in resemblance of a slipper with its triple fork hook and loop strap. But, it has the security of a lace-up shoe.
Size
Besides 5.5, every single size option from 5 to 14 is available for you to select from.
Durability
The rubber sections of bouldering shoes are what typically wears down the quickest. But, the toe rubber implemented here is highly-durable and should last you a decent amount of time.
Overall
These shoes truly are sensational and terrific in every single area that you need them to be. Once you get past the break-in period, as the shoes will stretch out, you will be able to climb with ease.
8. Evolv Shaman
Speaking of bouldering shoes that excel in performance but not so much in comfort after long periods of time, how about the Shaman Shoes from Evolv? Thankfully, you can go up a size to adapt to the tightness but it may or may not make a difference.
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For pure aggressiveness, these shoes fit the bill. Thanks to the asymmetrical aggressive curvature nature of the design, you can trust them on any terrain that you will ever be on.
Ground Feel
What this shoe truly excels at is transferring your energy for the utmost performance. Basically, both the Knuckle Box (which will position your big toe in a way for maximum power) and the Love Bump (which eliminates all the dead space underneath your toes) make this possible.
Adjustability
This section is highlighted by the triple hook-and-loop straps design. No matter your feet size, you can adjust the tightness to however you wish.
Size
Evolv provides you with sizes of 4, 4.5, 5.5, 6, 8.5, 9 and 9.5. However, due to the slight tightness, it may be necessary to size up here.
Durability
There is microfiber lining that is integrated on the inside of this shoe which is highly durable in its own right.
Overall
Let’s face it, these shoes can be uncomfortable for some and an absolute pain to break-in. However, it can’t be understated how effective these bad boys are when you need a proper pair of shoes for bouldering. They just perform remarkably.
9. Five Ten Anasazi VCS
The Five Ten Anasazi VCS is a great shoe for those who climb on vertical rock more than on overhung rock. They are comfortable but also great with editing and they work great as multi-patch shoes because of the stiff and durable construction.
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The Anasazi VCS can hold an edge. The shoe has excellent grip. The Onyxx rubber is known for having great stickiness.
Ground Feel
As a whole, these shoes perform very well. Its late a stiff sole helps you stick your toes on the smallest features. But despite that stiff sole, there is a sensitivity and stickiness you might have in a soft rubber shoe. The only drawback is the VCS might not be fit for handling overhung stuff because of the lack of aggressive build in the shoe.
Adjustability
The Anasazi VCS is made out of a synthetic material that won't stretch lengthwise. They recommend getting your shoe the same size as a street shoe or even a half size smaller.
Size
There are sizes for both men and women here, and they range from size 4 to 13 in U.S sizes.
Durability
The thick rubber sole on the Anasazi VCS's are durable and stand up to serious wear and tear. These should last you a while and will hold up to your most strenuous climbs.
Overall
The Anasazi VCS is a great option for wider feet. Not only will it comfortably fit a wide range of feet, but you won't sacrifice comfort for performance. These shoes are durable and capable of easily tackling vertical, technical climbs.
10. Five Ten Hiangle
All things considered, this is yet another high-quality bouldering shoe from Five Ten. Though there may not be anything here that stands out, just about every design feature is up-to-par with the standards you should set for this type of footwear.
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This includes a Stealth C4 rubber outsole with 4mm of thickness that provides not only support for your feet but also enough grip to handle anything.
Ground Feel
Truthfully, this is a great all-around bouldering shoe as it performs well for all-day climbing but delivers enough aggression for steep routes.
Adjustability
Only a single hook-and-loop closure system is present here, but it still is enough for you to find the best fit possible.
Size
Size options are available from 4 to 11, but if there is one thing for sure, these run ridiculously small. Even by only going up one-size, they still may be too tight for you. You may have to go up 1.5 to 2 sizes higher.
Durability
All in all, most of this shoe will hold up well (no matter indoors or outdoors) for its shelf life. Again, rubber outsoles will not last forever, but it seems to be a tad improvement on Five Ten’s other outsole.
Overall
As an all-around bouldering shoe, this is fantastic. It does everything well, but not necessarily better than others. Though it is not a one-trick pony, that is for sure which makes it great for activities past bouldering.
Sources
- , How to Choose Rock Climbing Shoes, Article
- , 9 Best Bouldering Shoes of 2019, Bouldering Site
- , Most Popular Indoor Bouldering Shoes 2019, Buying Guide
